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K2, Triumph and Tragedy, by Jim Curran
Get Free Ebook K2, Triumph and Tragedy, by Jim Curran
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From Publishers Weekly
In the summer of 1986, nine expeditions representing 10 nationalities converged in Pakistan at Base Camp ("the Strip") on K-2, the world's second-highest mountain. Twenty-seven people reached the summit; 13 perished. Climber-photographer Curran accompanied the British expedition to film a pioneer route on the Northwest Ridge. When that attempt failed, he stayed on to support his friend Al Rouse, who joined forces with Mrufhastet sp Wolf for a summit try via the Abruzzi Ridge. Curran was among the first to arrive, last to depart and the only English-speaking person at the site for the entire series of events. The easy camaraderie at Base Camp was first shaken by the deaths of two Americans in an avalanche June 21. Four climbers reached the summit on the 24th; two disappeared on the way down and a third was talked down by radio contact with another expedition. K-2 claimed two more climbers in July. On August 3, 10 South Koreans reached the top and three started back down, leaving the others poised for the summit attempt. Five made it, but then all were trapped at the highest camp in a severe storm. Curran rescued one of the two survivors. He has told a gripping story that belongs with the classics of mountaineering. Photos. Copyright 1987 Reed Business Information, Inc.
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From Library Journal
"In the summer of 1986 nine expeditions converged on K2, the world's second highest mountain, and twenty-seven people climbed it. Thirteen were killed, seven of them after reaching the summit." This is an unbelievably high fatality rate, even for such a dangerous sport. One of those killed was Al Rouse of the British expedition. Curran explains that summer's unusual events from his perspective as official photographer. He accompanied the British group to base camp and waited anxiously while not only British, but also Koreans, Poles, and Austrians tried for the summit. Engagingly written and beautifully illustrated with color photos, this is highly recommended.Thomas K. Fry, UCLA Libs.Copyright 1988 Reed Business Information, Inc.
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Product details
Hardcover: 219 pages
Publisher: Mountaineers Books; New Ed edition (February 1, 1988)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 0898861470
ISBN-13: 978-0898861471
Product Dimensions:
6.2 x 1.2 x 9.5 inches
Shipping Weight: 1.4 pounds
Average Customer Review:
4.2 out of 5 stars
45 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#1,768,541 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
The World’s Second-Highest Mountain… All 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks are located in the Himalaya or the Karakoram ranges in Asia. Of the group, Everest reigns as the supreme highest mountain in the world. And yet it is a neighbor with the strange name of “K2†that many consider the harder to climb. Everest is deadly, but the ridges running up to the summit are said to be less challenging than K2. K2 is the true monster among mountains.During 1986, twenty-seven persons made the summit of K2, a triumph for the climbers. But thirteen persons lost their lives that year in the attempt to master what many have named “The Savage Mountain.â€Author Jim Curran was on the mountain during the summer of 1986. His work as a climbing cameraman for the British Fullers Expedition gave him plenty of insight into the climbers and the mountain.Some of those who reached the summit of K2 that summer died on their way down. In fact, seven of the thirteen had reached the summit before disaster overtook them. Two Americans were killed in an avalanche, one man fell to his death in a crevasse just out of base camp, and seven were trapped at 26,000 feet for days. Only two would survive and they were almost dead when they finally were helped into base camp.But all was not tragedy. A young man named Benoit Chamoux made an historic 23 hour climb. Wanda Rutkiewicz became the first woman to summit K2. There were moments of heroism, including the author’s rescue of one of the two survivors of the summit disaster.Curran tells his story much like he lived it, one day at a time. We witness his rejoicing at the accomplishments of the climbers. We feel his anxiety when his friends are trapped for days. He shares his sorrow for the ones who were left behind, dead on the savage mountain that claimed their lives.This is a fascinating account of triumph and tragedy. I give the book four stars.Quoth the Raven…
Well written account of the 1986 achievements and deaths on K2. Twenty-seven climbed the mountain that year. Thirteen died. Eight died above 8,000m. The other five died from a falling rock, avalanches, and falls.I found a very crucial piece of information that apparently had not been read or heeded by most climbers on K2 in 2008 when eleven climbers died in similar circumstances. That is that a Korean summiteer in 1986, tried to fix the cut line across the traverse under the serac and put up a new line for others to traverse. Unfortunately, he left about a three foot hank of rope hanging down between the old and new rope line that others in the dark, and in fatigued conditions clipped onto and fell from in the dark. In 2008, many people who did summit couldn't find their way back to the fixed rope. Those with skills, used their crampons and ice axes to go down a near vertical wall of ice. Others, sat down to wait for morning. I think the lesson is, you have to plan to save yourself if possible . Cecilie went on later to be the first woman to win the Explorers Grand Slam, climbing the highest mountain on each of the seven continents and going to both the north and south poles.In 2008, only Cecile Skog's team knowingly carried a 300' length of climbing rope for emergencies such as this, and fixed a crucial line just cut from an avalanche under this terrible serac, which also took her new husband down to his death.Jim was a minimal climber. He was along for videography, photos, and ultimately a documentary. He was the last member of his team left there by the time he trekked out to go home. I highly recommend this book to people like me who are interested in climbing, and especially for climbers.
I think that Curran first popularized the "T&T" phrase. So, even though I would normally run away screaming when I see it, it's alright in this case.This book has been quoted from and mined for info on the terrible summer of 1986 on K2 by everyone else so often that at times I felt as though I had read it already. However, it's a great read. Curran's writing is clear and his humanity is touching. The events of 1986 are just as terrible and yes, tragic as they were shocking then. His rejection of the usual blame game in these disasters is refreshing.
This is a well written recital of a very sad story; typically found in climbing the 8000 meter mountains, but especially K2 and Everest, the two tallest mountains in the world. I think every mountain climber should read this book and others like it before they climb. There's a lot to learn from these stories and especially the ones that have tragic endings. It may help prevent further tragedies and keep mountain climbers alive for the next climb.
I love reading about people who take risks by doing things I would never do. I get the excitement without having to try it and have a heart attack! This book is sad because so many people died. However, it is a good book because it gives you a chance to understand what happens on this kind of climb. Also, if you're not a risk-taker like me, you will still be asking, "why would anyone want to do something like this.Great book.
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